All-Road

I modeled the dropouts as accurately as I could since I didn't receive the vendor-provided CAD or drawings. Once put into the assembly, it became apparent that the clearance between the caliper and seat stay was very tight. 

*Caliper, cassette, hub, and cranks are models from GrabCad.

I went with custom bent, laser cut steel plate from SendCutSend to make a low cost yoke that provided the tire and chainring clearance I was looking for.

I drilled vent holes for all tubing joints to keep argon flowing through the tube and avoid any trapped heat and fumes.

I used aluminum foil to help pool argon in the joints that required excessive stick-out when welding.

Tacking was intimidating because of how the tubes might pull out of alignment, but the jig and a somewhat thought-out tacking sequence kept the frame straight.

I've brazed with bronze, but hadn't worked with silver before. The low melting temp caught me off guard so the first bottle bosses were toasty. These ones came out well once I got the hang of it.

The head tube junction is a challenging joint as it's where most frames will fail. I used a thicker filler rod to get more metal in the joint and made sure the weld pool penetrated the bottom of the joint.

To minimize the heat put into the frame, I found that experienced welders will use pulse settings. Without the machine setting, I had to foot pulse throughout the build (~70 peak amps).